Counting Frogs

Counting Frogs

The first frog I spotted (Boana balzani–balzani for short) was thanks to my clunky ambling up and over rocks. At that point in the night, adrenaline was high, inhibitions were low. Some context: it was around 11pm, about 37 degrees, the water at the base of the rock I clung to was at least two feet deep, and I had three more hours of searching for frogs with Bolivian Amphibian Initiative–being wet and cold was incredibly unappealing. Unable to find any seizable holds, I remained frozen, all four limbs clutching desperately to the rock’s face. With a frantic heart beat and frog-like form, I decided to be brave and scuffle upward on the boulder. Bad move. I immediately slid back, my impotent hands tense and grasping, unable to find any nooks. I accepted my fate in what felt like slow motion. When I splashed down, there was a high pressure pause before water streamed fast and cold into my boots. Socks saturated and boots turned high suction marsh, I carried on, somehow merry with frisson and core warmth. Slipping into worst case scenario was freeing. 

My headlamp illuminating a daunting path across a fast moving stream.

Pivoting to a different route, I hoisted myself to the top of a boulder and stood up. I was immediately enmeshed in a mass of hanging vines. Jostling around trying to untangle myself, I nearly grabbed a bulbous stem before realizing it had eyes, wise discerning eyes. Face close to this tender creature, I was reminded of the awe that inspired me to dedicate a year to an ever evolving frog project. Her skin glistened yellow green and her sticky feet were beautifully equipped to defy any force of gravity I knew. She sensed my noticing, her breathing quickened. I called to the others, “rana!” The crew hustled over, quickly unpacking cameras, flashes, and light diffusers to get the perfect shot. I learned that frogs are surprisingly poised models, crouching motionless for many rounds of flash filled photo opts.

Photograph by Arturo, founder of Bolivian Amphibian, of Eduardo photographing a balzani.
Arturo photographing a balzani using light from his headlamp.

Up close, I felt a consuming love as I became aware of her glassy cosmic eyes, slippery skin, and sensible attention to finding comfortable nooks to rest in. As Robert Macfarlane puts it in The Wild Places, “attention was a form of devotion” and the unencumbered noticing made me want to protect her in every way I could. More than anything though, her frozen fear reminded me of my own. I tried to remember that the documenting was for conservation, a couple spooked moments surely worth the greater good of the species? Still, I liked to imagine the hidden frogs, watching our lights pass over them knowing they would never be found.

Me admiring a balzani on night one of the trip.

After spotting two frogs, I became less desperate to be a finder and let myself admire the whimsy of our frog quest. The aesthetics were fabulous—seeing through the darkness felt theatrical. Experiencing the jungle in HD high watt fragments was a completely new way to learn about a place. I felt connected to Altamachi because of our concentrated noticing, but outside our sliver of sight, the surrounding jungle remained completely unknown.

Trodding up steep marshy hills, I imagined the opening sequence of a Wes Anderson inspired film. First shot: camera zoomed in on character’s feet as they put on a pair of red rubber boots, camera zooms out to reveal the character arming themself with a flashlight (carried on shoulder), camera then pans to front door where character marches out into the darkness “in pursuit of frogs.”

Headlamp illuminated path.

My confidence grew and debilitating caution mellowed when I found myself in my imagined worse case scenario, despite my protective veil of fear. I also became more attuned to the intricacies of endlessly scary rock “pathways” through fast moving water: where rocks were flat, where the algae grew slippery, the sneaky foothold that would let me slink to the top. Climbing waterfalls, navigating barely marked trails, clambering across streams became a euphoric rush of adrenaline and endorphins, timid hesitation forced to an afterthought. The jungle would happily swallowed me up regardless, it was more fun to spring forward and trust I could handle whatever came next.

2 responses to “Counting Frogs”

  1.  Avatar
    Anonymous

    So beautifully written. The detail and emotion is palpable…. I shivered with your unexpected descent into the frigid water, the wetness in your boots, the darkness and mystery of the caves, and your deep respect and admiration for the creatures you meet. Well done!

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  2.  Avatar
    Anonymous

    “Glassy cosmic eyes” is amazing. Was totally picturing your Wes Anderson sequence too, want my own

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